Our lives are ruled by algorithms. From online dating to trading in pork bellies, a boffin somewhere has a bunch of squiggles that lets computers make impossible decisions for us. There’s one algorithm, however, that has yet to be written. It’s the eternal Ibiza question: when exactly to sleep?
Those precious days in the year when the white island is a temporary home must be perfect. (No pressure there then.) Not for me, the joined-up funning of the 72-hour party people, who roll from Sunday to Tuesday – Space, DC10, Amnesia – barely breaking for a bocadillo.
I want to see more actual daylight than catching the sun rising over the Old Town outside Pacha while waiting for my driver with the blacked-out windows to whisk me home to bed. Because for every memory of dance floor euphoria, there are another two of more mellow pleasures, like a woodland walk that smells the way hierbas tastes, the lunch when we laughed for eight hours straight on Es Cavallet, or swimming, dancing and drinking rosé, all nearly naked at Sa Trinxa on Salinas.
Back in that overly discussed day, a lot happened while the sun was up in Ibiza, and I liked it that way. I used to go to DC10 early on Monday, when it was still light. I loved that naughty feeling of being there while the rest of the world was still hunched over their desk at the office.
Partying in daylight, says Charlie Chester, the man who promoted Circo Loco for a decade, “feels like when you were a kid and found your Christmas presents – that giggly naughty feeling when you gave ‘em a squeeze.” Partying under the sun has always been a particularly Ibicencan pleasure. Some of the most legendary clubs have or had a terrace; KU, now Privilege, was entirely open-air until the noise police came knocking in the nineties.
Ben Turner of IMS says, “We fell in love with Ibiza for its daytime partying – Space first, then DC10, but then the authorities pulled it away from us. Finally, daytime partying is back, albeit with a new time slot of post lunch and over dinner time. It means you have the option every day to be up early on the beach – or, if you’re over 40, you can convince yourself it’s okay to keep living this lifestyle.”
Charlie Chester’s giggly feeling is what made Ibiza magic for me when I first came here. And it’s what’s making it magic for people again. The DJ Arthur Baker says, “After [Circo Loco at] DC10, Beachouse had the best music and the best vibe last summer. You got there for 4pm, ate, saw your friends, and a lot of the warm-up DJs who were going to play with Solomun on Sundays at Pacha would play there.”
“Back in that overly discussed day, a lot happened while the sun was up in Ibiza, and I liked it that way.”
Beachouse has restored some of the unpredictable, easy magic that once defined the island – when the authorities were a bit more laissez-faire. Last summer, the newcomer on Playa d’en Bossa saw all the big resident DJs pass through for an impromptu set, and Guy Gerber’s 5-midnight Sunday party, Rumors, spilled out onto the beach. It was the hit of the season.
There’s a more leisurely pace of rave – one that suits an older crowd – at Beachouse. The only kids around are, like, actually children, unlike Ushuaïa, where the cream of reality TV go to the huge day parties and mega-pout for squillions of arms-in-the-air selfies. When it comes to a day party, that’s not really what I’m mad for.
I daren’t go near Blue Marlin anymore, unless I have the cash to have my Champagne delivered by helicopter. Blue Marlin’s strictly for when rich friends are paying these days.
If you can find the invites to the best after parties, outdoor jollies can continue as soon as breakfast is over – but invites to The Kave or back to Carl Cox’s are not always easy to come by and there’s the challenge of dropping in to a party that started eight hours ago in a club. However, for the melodic sets and big name surprises, setting your alarm for an after party can be another way to embrace the sunshine. (However, if it’s an Ushuaïa after party you’ve managed to get a wristband for, bear in mind it’ll take place in a soundproofed room called the Dark Side.)
This summer, I’m going to love the light. No $100m Vegas super-club or elite VIP corner full of babes can compete with dancing in the sand while the sun disappears on the horizon. Rumors continues at Beachouse this season, along with new parties scheduled Tuesday and Wednesday.
That people struggled to decide between a beach club and the mighty closing party at Space says a lot about the lure of daylight raving. Nothing about Ibiza should be prescriptive, except, perhaps, to get some sleep sometime. And radical as it sounds, it could be that the best time to sleep on the island this summer is roughly between the hours of midnight and morning – otherwise known as “actual bedtime”.